Henastoi-Spendenkonvoi auf der Balkanroute – ein Reisebericht

Gleich geht's los: Georg, Jana, Seno und Andra (v.l.) kurz vor Abfahrt in Freilassing.

Gleich geht’s los: Georg, Jana, Seno und Andra (v.l.) kurz vor Abfahrt in Freilassing.

Zwei Sprinter voll warmer Kleidung und vier Hühner*innen – unterwegs in Slowenien, Kroatien und schlussendlich sogar Italien, um Menschen auf der Flucht zu helfen. Ein Bericht für unsere Unterstützer*innen, für Interessierte und für künftige Reisende in Sachen Humanität.

Seit im Spätsommer 2015 der Weg über die Balkanstaaten zur wichtigsten Route für Geflüchtete geworden ist, machen sich auch immer mehr Menschen in die entgegengesetzte Richtung auf – Menschen, die den Geflüchteten auf ihrem Weg entgegenkommen, um sie so früh wie möglich zu unterstützen.

Inspiriert von diesen vielen Einzelpersonen und Kollektiven, die diesen Weg schon vor uns gegangen sind, beschlossen wir im Spätherbst, selbst einen Spendenkonvoi auf die Beine zu stellen. Als wir im Zuge der grenzüberschreitenden Lichterkette begannen, die Menschen aus der Region um Unterstützung für diese Aktion zu bitten, waren wir schnell von der Hilfsbereitschaft überwältigt. Binnen weniger Tage hatten wir zwei Transporter voller warmer Winterkleidung und genügend Geldspenden, um die Fahrt zu finanzieren und vor Ort weitere Hilfsgüter zu kaufen.

Es war ein Zeichen, dass in unserer Region, deren politische Repräsentanten so gerne behaupten, sie würde unter der Last der Flüchtlingsbewegungen zusammenbrechen, noch viel mehr Kraft streckt. Kraft, um den Blick zu weiten und grenzüberschreitende Solidarität in die Tat umzusetzen. Für uns, die wir mit der Überbringung der Spenden betraut waren, stellte sich nun die Aufgabe, diejenigen Orte zu finden, an denen diese Spenden am dringendsten gebraucht wurden. Auch wenn sich die Lage vor allem im nördlichen Teil der Balkanroute seit dem Herbst verändert hat – die Staaten regulieren die Flüchtlingsbewegungen stark, haben aber in Zusammenarbeit mit großen Hilfsorganisationen mittlerweile auch eine zumindest rudimentäre Versorgungsstruktur geschaffen – so ist es doch schwierig die Lieferung von Hilfsgütern von langer Hand zu planen. Die Informationslage über akute Bedarfslagen ändern sich fast täglich und obwohl wir im Vorfeld zu zahlreichen Organisationen Kontakt aufgebaut hatten, war uns klar, dass sich Vieles erst vor Ort ergeben würde, als wir am 19.12.2015 unsere Reise begannen.

Erste Station: Das Lager in Dobova

Samstagabend erreichen wir das Durchgangslager in Dobova im südosten Sloweniens.

Samstagabend erreichen wir das Durchgangslager in Dobova im südosten Sloweniens.

Unser erstes Ziel ist das slowenische Durchgangslager Dobova, direkt an der Grenze zu Kroatien gelegen. Wir hatten im Vorfeld die Organisation Slovenska filantropija, die in diesem Lager die Freiwilligen koordiniert, kontaktiert und den Bedarf an Hilfsgütern und unsere Ankunftszeit abgesprochen. Als wir in der Nacht endlich mit unseren beiden Transportern das Lager erreichen, sind Polizei und Freiwilligenkoordinatoren vor Ort aber nicht über unser Kommen im Bilde. Bei einer Tasse Tee vereinbaren wir, dass wir am darauffolgenden Tag eine Schicht im Lager arbeiten und unsere Hilfsgüter – soweit benötigt – in der Kleiderkammer des Lagers abladen würden.

Um 7 Uhr morgens geht's los: Jede*r freiwillige Helfer*in bekommt einen Ausweis.

Um 7 Uhr morgens geht’s los: Jede*r freiwillige Helfer*in bekommt einen Ausweis.

Nach wenigen Stunden Schlaf in einem Hostel finden wir uns am frühen Morgen wieder zu unserer 8-Stunden-Schicht in dem von Nebel verhangenen Lager ein. Mit aus Kroatien kommenden Zügen erreichen die Geflüchteten Dobova und werden anschließend mit Bussen in dieses Lager gebracht, wo sie von den slowenischen Behörden erkennungsdienstlich registriert werden. Zwischen An- und Abreise und diesen Prozeduren halten sich die Schutzsuchenden in beheizten Zelten auf, die vom slowenischen Staat im November 2015 aufgestellt wurden – davor schliefen die Geflüchteten auf dem nackten Boden unter freiem Himmel. Mittlerweile wird ihnen das Lebensnotwendige gewährt – am Eingang werden Lebensmittel ausgeteilt, medizinische Versorgung und Kleidung gibt es auf Nachfrage. Aber zugleich wird hier alles dafür getan, dass die Geflüchteten so schnell wie möglich durch die von Absperrgittern eingefriedeten Wege geschleust werden, ihnen wird keine Ruhe gegönnt, in den Zelten sind allenfalls Decken vorhanden und nach wenigen Stunden werden Männer, Frauen und Kinder, zumeist völlig entkräftet, in Busse gesetzt, die sie zum Bahnhof bringen, wo dann Züge gen Österreich auf sie warten. Es ist das erklärte Ziel, die Geflüchteten so schnell es geht weiterzuschieben.

Eine unserer Aufgaben im Durchgangslager in Dobova ist das Reinigen der Zelte. Seno legt hier die oft nassen und meist dreckigen Decken zusammen.

Eine unserer Aufgaben im Durchgangslager in Dobova ist das Reinigen der Zelte. Seno legt hier die oft nassen und meist dreckigen Decken zusammen.

In diesem Lager müssen wir uns erst zu Recht finden, anfänglich sind wir mit der Reinigung der Zelte betraut, in denen kurz davor noch Geflüchtete auf ihre weitere Abfertigung gewartet haben. Wir sind erschrocken über die hygienischen Bedingungen, die durch die Organisatoren des Camps mitunter mutwillig herbeigeführt werden. Die nassen, dreckigen Decken in den Zelten werden offenbar wochenlang nicht gewechselt, nur bei stärkster Verschmutzung ausgetauscht. Wir bemerken schnell, dass man durch Eigeninitiative den Rahmen, der von der organisatorischen Leitung vorgegeben wird, ausnutzen und dehnen muss, um in der kurzen Zeit tatsächlich Hilfe gewährleisten zu können.

Kaffee- und Zigarettenpause zusammen mit einer Gruppe freiwilliger Helfer*innen aus Triest.

Kaffee- und Zigarettenpause zusammen mit einer Gruppe freiwilliger Helfer*innen aus Triest.

Zumindest unter den Freiwilligen ist die Stimmung aber gut, wir lernen eine Gruppe aus Triest kennen, die schon zum zweiten Mal hier arbeitet, und auch eine deutsche Gruppe treffen wir, die ebenfalls Kleiderspenden entlang der Balkanroute verteilt. Wir hören bedrückende Geschichten über Geflüchtete, die vor allem in Mazedonien und Serbien von korrupten Polizisten ausgeraubt und geschlagen werden (ohne dass wir diese Geschichten verifizieren könnten).

Abschließend arbeiten wir noch im Kleiderlager – nicht zuletzt, um Platz für unsere Spenden zu schaffen. Uns wird gesagt, dass nur bestimmte Hilfsgüter gebraucht werden. Wir sehen aber zugleich, dass die Lagerung und Verteilung der Kleidung hier wesentlich effizienter organisiert werden könnten. Letztlich laden wir etwa ein Viertel der mitgebrachten Kleiderspenden ab und beschließen weiter Richtung kroatisch-serbischer Grenze zu fahren, um die Kleidung an Orte zu bringen, wo wir sicher sein können, dass sie direkt eingesetzt werden.

Gleichgesinnte – die Gruppe Are you Syrious? in Zagreb, Kroatien

Ein kleines Geschenk: Den Button haben wir geschenk bekommen.

Ein kleines Geschenk von Are you Syrious.

Unser nächstes Ziel ist die kroatische Hauptstadt Zagreb, die wir in der Nacht von Sonntag, 20. auf Montag, 21. Dezember erreichen. Wir wissen, dass wir mit unseren Hilfsgütern die kroatisch-serbische Grenze nicht passieren können, da die Auflagen der serbischen Behörden strikt sind und wir einen Zollschein benötigen würden, den wir wegen des großen bürokratischen Aufwands für eine verhältnismäßig geringen Menge nicht beantragt haben. Zudem sind im Durchgangslager in Slavonski Brod zu diesem Zeitpunkt keine Freiwilligen zugelassen. Insofern ist Zagreb mit den dort ansässigen Hilfsorganisationen und ihren Lagerungskapazitäten die nächstbeste Anlaufstelle.

In einer Lagerhalle in Zagreb treffen wir zwei Mitglieder von "Are you Syrious?"

In einer Lagerhalle in Zagreb treffen wir zwei Mitglieder von „Are you Syrious?“

Wir telefonieren die Hilfsorganisationen vor Ort ab, zu denen wir zum Teil schon im Vorfeld Kontakt aufgenommen haben. Dabei müssen wir aber feststellen, dass auch in Zagreb die Lager schon gut gefüllt sind – nicht zuletzt, weil bereits ganze LKWs, die mit Hilfsgütern gen Griechenland unterwegs sind, am serbischen Zoll scheiterten und dann in Kroatien abladen mussten.

Am Ende einer langen Suche nach kompetenten Ansprechpartner*innen können wir schließlich ein Treffen mit zwei Mitgliedern der Gruppe „Are you Syrious?“ arrangieren. Diese Gruppe war uns schon vor Beginn unserer Reise als der geeignetste Kooperationspartner erschienen, auch wegen ihres täglichen Newsletters auf Facebook, der eine hervorragende Informationsquelle für Freiwillige entlang der Balkanroute ist. Nun treffen wir zwei ihrer Mitglieder in einer Lagerhalle im Süden Zagrebs.

Kartons und Säcke voll warmer Kleidung: etwa die Hälfte unserer Ladung haben wir in Zagreb gelassen.

Kartons und Säcke voll warmer Kleidung: etwa die Hälfte unserer Ladung haben wir in Zagreb gelassen.

In der weitläufigen, düsteren Halle sind bereits unzählige Kisten, auch oft mit Beschriftung in deutscher Sprache, nach Kleidungstypen geordnet und gestapelt. Da „Are you Syrious?“ plant, einen Teil der Hilfsgüter nach Griechenland zu verschiffen, einigen wir uns darauf, dass wir die Hälfte unserer Ladung in der Lagerhalle lassen. Zudem bieten wir noch an, dass wir uns an den Kosten für den Container beteiligen werden. Dies erscheint uns als der beste Weg, um das Ziel unserer Reise zu erreichen – die Spenden dorthin zu bringen, wo sie am dringendsten gebraucht werden.

Im weiteren Gespräch mit den Mitgliedern von „Are you Syrious?“ wird immer deutlicher, dass wir hier zweifellos Gleichgesinnte gefunden haben. Die Gruppe hat sich erst im Zuge der starken Flüchtlingsbewegungen im Spätsommer gebildet, allesamt junge Kroaten und Kroatinnen, die seitdem versuchen, unabhängig von staatlichen Organen den Geflüchteten direkte zu helfen. Sie erzählen uns, dass sie auch oft nach Dobova fahren, um dort als Freiwillige zu arbeiten und bekräftigen die Notwendigkeit eines proaktiven Ansatzes. Sie würden dort stets mit kleinen Ladungen an Hilfsgütern vorfahren und diese direkt an Flüchtlinge verteilen – weswegen sie auch von den dort ansässigen Hilfsorganisationen mitunter kritisch beäugt würden. Darüber hinaus warnen sie uns vor grassierender Korruption in großen kroatischen Hilfsorganisationen. Wir verabreden bezüglich des Containers in Kontakt zu bleiben und verabschieden uns mit dem Gefühl, die Richtigen ausfindig gemacht zu haben.

Helfen und Hoffnungslosigkeit – am Tisch mit Geflüchteten in Gorizia

Mit der restlichen Ladung verlassen wir Zagreb und machen uns auf den Weg nach Gorizia.

Mit der restlichen Ladung verlassen wir Zagreb und machen uns auf den Weg nach Gorizia.

Als wir Zagreb verlassen, haben wir immer noch ein Viertel unserer Ladung in den Transportern. Im Zuge unserer langwierigen Kontaktaufnahmen haben uns aber weitere Nachrichten erreicht, die uns zu den letzten Zielen der Reise führen. Wir telefonieren mit einer Mitarbeiterin der internationalen Organisation WAHA (Women and Health Alliance International), die sich in Dobova um schwangere Frauen auf der Flucht und Mütter mit Kleinkindern und Babys kümmert. Von ihr erfahren wir, dass in Dobova dringend Babyflaschen und Babycremes benötigt würden. Außerdem wurden wir mehrfach darauf verwiesen, dass in Gorizia, an der slowenisch-italienischen Grenze, eine große Anzahl afghanischer und pakistanischer Männer außerhalb des offiziellen Asylsystems, zum großen Teil auch ohne festen Wohnplatz, leben würde und Bedarf an warmer Winterkleidung hätte.

Am 22.12 treffen wir schließlich vor dem Bahnhof Dobova auf die WAHA-Mitarbeiterin. Ihr können wir etwa 60 Babyflaschen und eine große Anzahl Babycremes übergeben, die wir zuvor von Spendengeldern vor Ort gekauft haben. Dabei erfahren wir auch wieder, wie schnell sich die Informationen über akute Bedarfslagen, je nach Ansprechpartner*in, ändern können – nun meint ein Mitarbeiter der Organisation ADRA, in Dobova würden sehr wohl Kleiderspenden gebraucht, für die sogar noch ein weiteres Kleiderlager bestehe.

Angekommen in Gorizia: In einer Wohnhaussiedlung warten wir die Freiwilligen Helfer*innen.

Angekommen in Gorizia: In einer Wohnhaussiedlung warten wir die Freiwilligen Helfer*innen.

Da wir aber davon ausgehen können, dass Teile der Spenden über „Are you Syrious?“ wieder nach Dobova gelangen werden, entscheiden wir uns dazu, gleich in das italienische Gorizia zu fahren. Dort werden wir von einem herzlichen Rentnerehepaar in Empfang genommen, die zu den wenigen Aktiven in der Flüchtlingshilfe vor Ort gehören. Zu unserer Überraschung können diese nicht nur unsere restliche Ladung komplett gebrauchen – sie betonen, wie oft sie von Geflüchteten nach Kleidung gefragt würden, die sie nicht hätten. Wir werden schließlich auch zum gemeinsamen Essen eingeladen, das in ihrer Gemeinde jeden Abend für die Schutzsuchenden ausgerichtet wird.

Momente der Begegnung: am Tisch mit Geflüchteten in Gorizia.

Momente der Begegnung: am Tisch mit Geflüchteten in Gorizia.

Dort treffen wir dann auf die ca. 150 afghanischen und pakistanischen Männer, die in Gorizia gestrandet sind und sitzen mit ihnen gemeinsam zu Tisch. Es ist erleichternd, die hierarchische Rollenverteilung von Helfenden und Hilfsbedürftigen hinter sich lassen zu können, die auch oft den Situationen in den Flüchtlingscamps unterliegt, und sich stattdessen einfach zu begegnen, im Gespräch. Und doch kann man sich der Schwere nicht entziehen: Junge Männer, die sich zwar irgendwie nach Europa retten konnten, aber hier nun entgegen ihrer Erwartungen in eine hoffnungslose Lage geraten sind, der sie kaum mehr entfliehen können. Sie erzählen von ihrem tristen Alltag auf der Straße, ohne Beschäftigung in einer Stadt, die sie nicht haben will. Und so sitzt man am Ende eines Hilfskonvois da, zusammen mit Geflüchteten, die bereits den beschwerlichen Weg nach West- und Mitteleuropa geschafft haben, und fragt sich, welche Hoffnung man ihnen geben könnte – jenseits von warmer Kleidung und warmem Essen. Aber man findet keine Antwort.

Mit unserem Spendenkonvoi wollten wir akute Nothilfe entlang der Balkanroute leisten – das haben wir geschafft. Auch wenn humanitäre Hilfe in den staatlich kontrollierten Lagern mitunter mühsam sein kann und man schnell das Gefühl bekommt, schlichtweg Entlastungshandlungen für diese allenfalls oberflächlich gut organisierten Strukturen zu leisten. Aber letztendlich handelt es sich auch hier um humanitäre Hilfe für Menschen in Not – und diese wird umso dringlicher gebraucht werden, je schlimmer der Winter wird. Für etwaige weitere Einsätze steht für uns aber fest, dass wir uns in Richtung Griechenland orientieren würden, da dort gegenwärtig die Not am größten ist, aber man als helfende Gruppe zugleich auch autonomer arbeiten kann. Für dieses Vorhaben bildet der Container, den wir nun gemeinsam mit „Are you Syrious“ nach Griechenland schicken, einen möglichen Anfang.

Akute Nothilfe ist eine große Aufgabe, denn es geht oft um den Schutz von Menschenleben. Aber gerade in Gorizia konnten wir erkennen, dass es vielleicht eine noch größere Aufhabe sein wird, diesen Menschen, die zu uns kommen, auf Dauer Hoffnung zu geben und ein Leben zu ermöglichen. Gerade dafür werden wir uns in unserer Region weiter einsetzen.

Wir danken allen, die diese Fahrt unterstützt haben – und so nicht nur Geflüchteten direkt geholfen, sondern uns als Helfende auch eine prägende Erfahrung ermöglicht haben.

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